![]() ![]() I use a wedge with a polarizing filter myself, but in terms of how much light to let in, I would favor the use of Baader film and a good set of polarizing filters to dial it in. It just works well for eclipse photography. So that is why I strongly recommend glass. And of course glass works well for pro's. But the light transmission characteristics of glass puts a "newbie" in a nice workable range of ISO, and shutter speeds for all parts of the eclipse. There are many variables depending on the person's gear, but that is my point about a potential issue. ![]() #Solar eclipse maestro isoSo if you have a system with a fast focal ratio, you can get into a situation where your camera may not have shutter speeds fast enough and a ISO slow enough for Baily's beads. It allows 2 1/3 stops more light than glass. ![]() Therefore, the issue with Baader film is, even at OD 5, it lets in a lot of light. #Solar eclipse maestro fullBut is based on the properly exposed full solar disk image, which means bright in the center but preserving natural limb darkening. This is very important insight into the light capturing behavior of your system. From those settings, I know your diamond ring and Baily's beads shutter speed should be about 2 to 2 1/3 stops faster. It's based on this principle, and I don't care what system you are using, if you achieve a properly exposed full solar disk image with a glass solar filter, those exact camera settings will be the exposure for the inner corona. But I teach a 6-Step Process that takes the stress out of eclipse exposure settings and it is based on glass filters. I am trying to guide eclipse photography novices, and they all stress about exposures. Some of the most expert eclipse photographers in the world use glass - Fred Espenak. With solar eclipse photography, I believe glass filters are perfectly adequate because we are working in the range of 600mm to 1000mm. But this is at a 2760mm focal length and trying to get Mercury sharp. I own a full aperture glass filter, but I used Baader to try to get Mercury as sharp as possible. When I was imaging the Mercury transit in 2019, I used full aperture Baader film on a 7" Mak. You are correct that Baader film is probably more sharp, and I mention that in my book. Regarding my recommendation for metalized glass solar filters, some things must be put into perspective. Thank you for your thoughtful comment, I appreciate the chance to discuss this. Baader ND 3.8 solar film: Photography ONLY Baader ND 5.0 solar film: Visual and photography That is my personal experience, but more discussion on this here.īaader claims a very high strehl for its solar film: "This highest precision film consistently produces strehl ratios of 94 to 96 percent at interferometric tests – thus it performs optically like a Fluorite Triplet Lens by Carl Zeiss or Astro Physics" Glass filters are below par when it comes to quality of images produced. I have been contact with Thousand oaks and I think they are trying to get back into glass for 2024. I personally don't like SolarLite film, I don't think it is as clear and in passes 3 stops less light than glass. Buy them now if you need them, they will run out close to the eclipse! Thousand Oaks Optical only sold their SolarLite film prior to 2017, seeming to get out of the glass filter business. There maybe other on-line telescope retailers that still sell glass. Seymour Solar and Spectrum Telescope still sell glass filters, although I don't know what they have in stock right now. You probably have gear at home that will work fine. Understand the effective focal length of your gear. I HIGHLY recommend glass filters Buy the ID slightly larger then the OD of your gear. Teaching eclipse photography is my "thing." Here a a few tidbits on getting started. I know from 2017 that when chatter starts about an eclipse there are dozens of questions from eclipse photography novices about what to do. A while back there were some posts that were a back and forth with APShooter and he made some good points about eclipse photography. ![]()
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